We landed on San Cristóbal Island, which, as Darwin described, rises with a rounded outline showing small mounds of lava—evidence of former craters. The first impression is of a bleak, harsh environment. I note a large field of black lava with plates of broken lava sheets. The lava field is zigzagged with large cracks and almost no sign of life, except for an occasional sprout of the small lava cactus.